Ribbon edged tutu tutorial

This year, T decided she wanted to be a "Princess Ballerina" for Halloween.  Who knew 2-year olds could be so opinionated!?  I've made the no-sew tutus before, but I thought the ribbon edged ones looked just a bit more "princessy". I purchased yellow, pink, and purple tulle, but in the end, just made a purple tutu. 

Materials needed:

1-2 yards of tulle (depending on size and how many layers you want)

1-2 spools of coordinating 1/2 inch satin ribbon

3/4 inch elastic for waistband

thread

scissors/rotary cutting materials

sewing machine (serger not necessary)

First, I took her measurements and figured out what size to cut the tulle. 

Length (waist to knee) 8".

Waist 20"

I planned to fold over the tulle to create a casing for the elastic, with this in mind, I doubled the length measurement and added 2 inches for the casing.

To get a full skirt, you generally double the waist measurement.  I wanted to get the most out of my tulle, and since I bought a yard, I used the 36" as my width.

So, I cut three layers at 18" x 36". Then, cut the ribbon to the width measurement, here 36".

You will be attaching ribbon to both long edges of the tulle such that, when folded in half, the right sides are facing the same way.  Placing the ribbon down first, I sewed the tulle using a straight stitch down the middle of the ribbon.

 Then, making sure when folded in half, the right sides face the same way, attach ribbon to the other long side of the tulle.

With right sides of the ribbon facing in, fold the tulle into a tube (with ribbon at the top and bottom edge) and sew up the side.  I used a serger here (mostly because I love using it and try to find ways to incorporate it any way I can, but don't be like me, use a coordinating thread if you do this), but a straight stitch is perfectly fine since tulle won't unravel.

 (I just love when the trimmed edges collect from my serger.  See, I'm obsessed with it!)

Repeat with all your layers, whether of the same or different colors.  Take all your tubes and insert one into another.  From here, find the middle of the tube and mark the center.  I used pins here, feel free to use those fancy fading markers.  However, tulle loves to shift on you and I found I had to pin like crazy (I hate pinning!), so I definitely recommend pinning the tulle.

 I found that if I rolled up the edges in toward that center, the tulle shifted less and was easier to manage.

 Sew through all layers along that center line, being careful to keep the tube of tulle open.

 Use that sewn center line as a guide and fold the tube into itself so that the right sides of the ribbon are now facing out.  Create a casing by sewing 3/8" from the center sew line all around, and then 1" from that stitched line, leaving a one inch opening to insert your waistband.  This makes a little ruffle around the top of the waistband as an additional detail, very cute over a leotard.

Cut your elastic waistband 2 inches smaller than the waist measurement.  Using a safety pin, feed it through the casing, and using a boxed-X pattern, sew the two ends together.

And you're done!  The proof that my daughter loves it?  She wore it all night (even to sleep), and then the next day!  I'd love to show it to you on her, but that is another post in our Halloween costume wrap-up!

Wet Bags

I've been checking projects and errands off of my "To-Do-Before-Going-Back-to-Work" list like crazy.  One of those things was to make wet bags for K's dirty diapers at daycare.  These bags are made from polyurethane laminate, or PUL, and are great for anything that gets wet or dirty, gym clothes, bathing suits, diapers, etc.  When I saw this on a recent shopping trip, I knew I had to make some wet bags for the girls!  From one yard (at 14.99/yd), I made 5 wet bags bags:

Cut fabric to 36"x 12"

Sew over 1/4 inch along each of the long sides

Fold over the top 1/4 inch, then 3/4 inches and sew with a 1/8" seam allowance to create casing

Sew sides together using 1/8" seam allowance, leaving casing open

Thread 30" of ribbon through the casing and tie knot

That's it!  Really quick and easy for some really useful and versatile bags.  I have to admit, I've never been so excited to put a dirty diaper in something I just made!

Mommy skirt

Ah, the post pregnancy wardrobe.  Not too flattering, is it?  All your maternity stuff is way too big (and let's face it, you can't stand to look at it anymore).  All your pre-pregnancy clothes are still too small.  If you're like me, you may have even gotten back to pre-pregnancy weight, but still nothing fits those hips. Grr.

I wanted to make something that would fit, was flattering and yet forgiving.  There's nothing like an A-line skirt, right? I didn't want to spend a lot of time on darts and zippers.  Have I mentioned how much zippers frighten me?  So, I present to you the elastic waist A-line Mommy skirt.

This skirt is great with any fabric with a nice drape, but if you choose a knit fabric, make your dimensions a bit smaller since that fabric will stretch.  Here, I've used a yellow gingham.  I actually lined this skirt too (my first!), since the fabric was a bit too transparent for my liking, but I'll get to that. 

Depending on how long you want your skirt to be, you should be able to complete this project with one yard of fabric, along with 3/4" elastic and coordinating thread.  I used my serger and regular sewing machine, but you don't need a serger.

Let's start with some measurements.  Okay deep breath. Measure your waist and the widest part of your hips.  Since this will be pulled up over your hips, we need the waist to be able to stretch to that size.  Then determine how long you want your skirt to be.  Finally, determine the widest part of your skirt.  I find 56" works well, but I vary that depending on how much material I have. 

Waist 28"

Hips 36"

Length 20"

Bottom 56"ish

So, based on the above measurements, I'm going to need to cut two rectangles of fabric at 28x22 (WxL).  Since this will be a lined skirt, I'm going to cut two more rectangles of lining with the same dimensions.

To make this skirt A-line and not so poufy at the waist (because that flatters no one), we will be cutting the rectangles at an angle.  To determine the angle, we make an adjustment based on the hip measurement and total width of the fabric.  Since the width is 56 and the hip is 36, we need to cut the fabric 5" on each side for each rectangle.  The easiest way to do it is to layer all pieces and fold in half the long way.  On a cutting mat, angle your straight edge 5" in at the top to the outside corner at the bottom.  The picture below explains it more clearly:

So now we have two trapezoidal pieces of gingham along with the lining.  Layer lining, gingham (wrong side down), gingham (wrong side up), lining.  Sew up both sides.  I used my serger for a cleaner, more finished look, but a simple straight stitch will do.  If you use a straight stitch, use a zig zag stitch near the edge to prevent fraying. 

To make the casing for the elastic waist, I serged along the top raw edge and then folded both gingham and liner down 1".  Sew the casing closed using a straight stitch, leaving a one inch opening to insert the elastic. I cut 3/4" elastic according to my waist measurement above and threaded it into the casing using a safety pin.  Over lap the elastic end by one inch and sew securely.  I like to do a boxed X. 

This is a good place to try on your skirt to see if you like how the waist fits and figure out how much to need to hem it.  If you're happy with the waist, sew the 1" opening closed.  I also like to stich the elastic in place along the sides just to keep it from twisting.  I wanted this skirt to come to my knees, so I'm going to do a 1" hem.  Serge around the bottom edge of the skirt just as you did for the top.  Fold over one inch and hem using a straight stitch.

That's it, your skirt is done!  I was able to do all of mine in one nap!  Good luck! 

Shower Curtain Tutorial

Here's my shower curtain tutorial!

I've been super inspired by the Anthropologie DIY ruffle shower curtains.

Source: sisterview.com via Melissa on Pinterest

Up until it was time to choose fabric, I was totally convinced that I would make one of my own. But, then I found this print and I was in love. So much so, that I had to order the fabric and patiently wait two weeks for it to come in. 

With a pattern that busy, I thought my head would just explode with all those ruffles.  However, I did want something fuller, floofier.  Drawing on my recent experiences ruffling fabrics, I decided to go with a one-tier ruffled curtain with some structure at the top.  So I drew up some plans, keeping in mind that I have already ordered and received my fabric and had to work within the amount at hand.

I used the measurements of the curtain liner as a guide, 70" W x 71" L.  With my fabric measuring only 54"W, I would need to incorporate some panels.  I also had to keep in mind that the pattern is long.  Originally, I planned to have two 54"W panels attached to a structured top.  Just before I got my scissors out, I realized that if I made that cut, I wouldn't have enough material to finish the project.  Gah!  Back to the drawing board...

OK, so three panels, 2x 28", 1x43" wide, all 72" L.  The remaining fabric, 14"W x 72"L would be used for the structured top.

First, I attached each side panel to the wider panel in the middle with a running stitch and then a zigzag stitch to secure it and prevent fraying.  Each side and bottom was then hemmed.  On the sides, I folded each side in one inch and sewed taking advantage of the selvages.  The bottom was turned in one inch and then 5 inches. 

Then, with a long running stitch across the top, I ruffled the entire panel by holding the top thread in my hand as I sewed.  This was a little tricky with the bulk of the fabric.  Ruffling this way is by no means precise, but it certainly beats pulling strings and ruffling afterwards.  I leave long thread tails on either end so that I can adjust the final width as necessary.  This time, I hit it right on the mark.  That never happens!

Next, I switched to the top structured panel.  I took my 14"W x 72"L fabric and folded it lengthwise so that it was 7" x 72".  Doing it this way did turn the pattern 90 degrees.  However, I picked the side that I liked the look best as the front and its actually not driving me crazy like I thought it would.  I turned in each edge about one inch and ironed well all around.  Feeling confident, I started sewing the ruffled panel to the structured panel.  Big mistake!  The bulk of the ruffled panel made the structured panel pucker on the bottom and I had to start over.  Of course I didn't realize my mistake until the end and I got to enjoy ripping out the entire seam.  Yay!

OK, second try, I measured, placed and sewed my button holes into the structured panel before attaching the ruffled panel.  This provided some much needed stability.  I then brought out the sewing pins.  GASP!  I never pin anything, but I wanted this to look perfect to go along with my new perfect bathroom!  To hide the raw edge of the ruffled panel, it was inserted between the two folded sides of the structured panel (see pic below).  I then pinned under each button hole. 

It was slow going, but it worked!  I took out my seam ripper again to open up the button holes and hung that baby up!  I love how it came out! Ruffly, but not overwhelming.  Looks great against the grey walls!

And, since you've made it all the way to the end, for your viewing enjoyment, here is a lovely 37-week picture of my bump!

(yes, I am standing on T's step stool so that you can see the actual bump over my new vanity!)

Booo Booooo Rice Pack

After making the adult version, I thought it would be cute to make some kiddo rice packs.  They may not have the aches and pains we adults do, but they often bump heads or need a tummy soothed, right?

There are tons of these on Pinterest, but after making the adult version, I didn't look up any for my owl version.  They are really easy to make and I think I might make a few more for some special tots!

Using a Christmas card from years past (that conveniently had an oval on it), I messily adjusted the shape to be a little more squared off to make a template.

I then folded it in half and cut out my design so that it would be symmetrical.  Using this template, I cut out cotton fabric for the front and flannel for the back.

For the wings, I made a half heart shape, folded my cotton fabric in half and cut out the wings through the two layers so that I had one wing for each side.

For the eyes, I had a circle template with a 1.75" diameter, but in the future will probably use a 1.5" diameter as these were a bit two big.  For the center of the eyes, I cut 1" squares out of flannel and then rounded off the corners.

Here (above) is what the pieces look like assembled.  Using a zig zag stitch as close to the edge as possible, I then attached the blue circles to the white circles and then attached these to the body.  Then I attached the wings.

With right-sides together, I sewed the front and back together using a short stitch with a 1/8" seam allowance, leaving the bottom open for filling.  I did use my turning trick here too to make turning and closing easier.

This is the final product after filling with approximately 2 cups of uncooked brown rice and sewing the opening at the bottom closed.  Even though B said it looks like an owl, I think I need to go back and hand stitch a beak on.  I do like the mix of fabrics and colors though.

We haven't tested this out yet.  I thought to myself "T doesn't hit her head all that much" and sure enough, later that day, she bumped her head!  Lesson learned, this little guy will find a cozy nest inside a ziploc bag in the freezer so that he's ready at a moment's notice!

Rice Cold/Hot Pack Tutorial

I was a busy girl this weekend and the dining room table is proof!  My poor husband shakes his head every time he walks by the mound of fabric scraps, cutting tools, sewing machine, etc.  I was like Pig Pen from Peanuts, except, instead of dirt flying around me, it was fabric dust!

Anyways, I was making some gifts for friends this weekend and I tried my hand at a rice filled hot/cold pack.  I'm sure you've seen something similar at a kiosk in the mall.  You can either store them in the freezer to use as a cold pack, or heat them up in the microwave for 30-60 seconds as a heat pack.  Because they are filled with rice, they mold nicely to whatever aches.  As I'm getting older, more is getting achier too!

I did have some inspiration for this project.  I had read their tutorial a while ago and decided to just wing it this weekend!

Source: thegreenwife.com via Melissa on Pinterest

So, without further ado, here is my version!

I cut two pieces of cotton and one piece of felt to approximately 16" x 8".  This size ws mostly out of convenience as I had some left over fabric from a previous project and these dimensions fit nicely. (And yes, that is a towel, a.k.a. my ironing board, under my cutting mat.  Super professional I tell ya!)

*Warning!  If you plan to use these as a hot pack, make sure you aren't using synthetic materials in your construction!  We don't want any microwave fires!

I sewed right sides together around the two long sides and one short side.  For all seams, I used a small stitch setting (2, I think) to keep those seams tight.  On the other short side, I sewed in from each corner about two inches and then made a right turn and sewed out to the edge of the fabric.  The picture below might be a little more clear.

This was a neat little trick I picked up somewhere along the way.  It makes it really easy to sew that seam shut after turning the fabric!  So, clip your corners.  I also trimmed my seams to 1/4" to reduce bulk after turning.

Turn your fabric right side out, poking out those corners with something to get a nice right angle.  Iron down the seams.

Top stitch 1/8" along the two long sides and the short side opposite the opening.  The other short side will be top stitched later.  This gives it a nice professional look (people won't think you iron on a towel this way!)

Based on the size of my fabric after turning and top stitching, I figured 5 sections about three inches apart would be best.  Mark these with a pin on both sides of the fabric.  Or, you could draw a line with chalk (you won't be washing this, so don't use those fancy markers!)

This next step I specifically remembered from the above tutorial - using gravity to help keep rice in place!  I poured in about 1/2 a cup of uncooked brown rice and used pins across to keep them in place.  The amount of rice you use will vary dependingon your dimensions.  This amount gave it a good amount of bulk while allowing for movement and molding.  Sew across and repeat for each section.  The last section is a little tricky, but you'll use the topstitching to seal in the rice.

Ahh, here it is in use!  Perfect!  This will make a great stocking stuffer!

Once I was finished, I figured I'd give a try at making a cute little owl one for Miss T!  I call it my Boooo Boooo!  I'll post that tutorial later this week!  For now, here is a little teaser!

p.s. I've linked up with The Holly Bloggy Christmas, hosted by Tatertots & Jello.  Head over there to be inspired by hundreds of other homemade Christmas gifts!

Sweater Refashion Review

So I finally took the leap and did a sweater refashion into a cardigan.  I needed a winter weight cardigan for some upcoming events and I had a sweater that I just won't wear that often anymore (never mind that fact that it won't fit over my belly right now!).  It's super soft and a great winter white, so I took the plunge.

This was my tutorial inspiration:

Source: iammommahearmeroar.blogspot.com via Melissa on Pinterest

It seemed easy enough.  I even took the time to take some picture along the way, so here goes!

So, instead of fabric, I used ribbon purchased to match the dress I'm wearing next week to a holiday party (see this post to see the dress and matching necklace I made).

I found the center line of the front of my sweater by folding it in half and placing a pin.  The fact that it is a rib knit made it that much easier.  Measure out the ribbon to be a bit longer than the sweater from neckline to hem.  I actually ended up using an even longer piece than shown here.  My first attempt had stretched the knit a little too much and I ended up with a too short piece of ribbon.  So, don't skimp here!

Ok, take a deep breath and start cutting up that sweater.  For me, this was the hardest part.

Place the ribbon along the edge of the front of the sweater cut line, folding over about an inch of the ribbon over the top of the neckline, and sew.  I used a basting (longest length) stitch which helped reduced the amount of stretch in the sweater.  When you get to the bottom, fold over the remaining bit of ribbon.  This will all be enclosed in the next step, so don't worry about the ends of the ribbon fraying.

Can you see the stitching?  Now, fold over the sweater and ribbon so that both are on the inside of the sweater.  Sew back down on the inside.  I used a thread that matched the sweater so that from the front, you can't even see it.  The second line of stitching is the bottom line shown in the picture below.  Trim all of your threads.

If you want, that's pretty much all you need to do.  You could add some buttons or toggles as the inspirational blogger did for hers.  I wanted something a little dressier, so I attached pieces of ribbons to the inside top corner using an X/box stitch (sorry no picture).  This was actually the too short ribbon I cut first, so nothing was wasted!  I did heat seal the ribbons by waving them near a candle flame.  You could also use fray check if you have some on hand.

Here's the finished product!  Complete with matching necklace! 

I think it shows off my bump quite nicely!

(haha, don't mind the sweatpants in this picture!)

All in all, this was actually pretty easy. 

I might have to go through my closet now and see what I can start refashioning!